Italian glamour is having a major moment in Manhattan. Legendary fashion house Sergio Soldano officially re-entered the spotlight with its first collection in decades, unveiling a Fall/Winter 2026–2027 presentation during New York Fashion Week. Hosted at Printemps New York and presented in partnership with Fashion Group International, the evening marked a bold new chapter for the storied Italian brand.
Giovanni Premoli, Thierry Prevost, Maryanne Grisz and Dario Di Bella attend the Sergio Soldano Brand Revival Event and F/W 2026 Womenswear Collection Presentation at Printemps on February 11, 2026 in New York City. (Photo by Sean Zanni/Getty Images)
Now under the creative direction of Giovanni Premoli and Dario Di Bella, the house debuted a masterfully curated collection that fused heritage craftsmanship with expressive modernity. The presentation drew a who’s who of New York’s fashion elite, including FGI President & CEO Maryanne Grisz and Printemps America CEO Thierry Prevost, alongside tastemakers such as Fern Mallis and Nicole Fischelis.
Models pose during the Sergio Soldano Brand Revival Event and F/W 2026 Womenswear Collection Presentation at Printemps on February 11, 2026 in New York City. (Photo by Sean Zanni/Getty Images )
Set against the opulent backdrop of Printemps’ Financial District flagship, guests ascended the grand staircase into the Boudoir, an intimate Art Deco-inspired salon infused with French allure. The immersive mise-en-scène featured suspended looks floating overhead, others lining the perimeter, and live models animating the garments in a dynamic tableau vivant. A haunting violin performance by Lauren Cauley paired with evocative vocals by Minda Larsen added theatrical intensity, transforming the showcase into a multi sensory experience.
Giovanni Premoli and Dario Di Bella speak during the Sergio Soldano Brand Revival Event and F/W 2026 Womenswear Collection Presentation at Printemps on February 11, 2026 in New York City. (Photo by Sean Zanni/Getty Images for Sergio Soldano)
Rather than mining the archives for nostalgia, Premoli and Di Bella approached the house legacy as a living language. Painterly prints, created through oil on canvas and transferred onto silk, underscored the brand’s dedication to elevated craftsmanship and its Made in Italy soul. “Fashion is not only about form, but about feeling and storytelling,” Di Bella shared, describing the collection as an emotional dialogue between memory and imagination.
Having first reintroduced itself to U.S. buyers during 2025 market week, Sergio Soldano’s official New York Fashion Week debut cements its partnership with Printemps and signals a confident reentry into the global luxury conversation.
Shoes on display during the Sergio Soldano Brand Revival Event and F/W 2026 Womenswear Collection Presentation at Printemps on February 11, 2026 in New York City. (Photo by Sean Zanni/Getty Images for Sergio Soldano)
Timely yet timeless, Sergio Soldano’s renaissance proves that true artistry never fades, it evolves. The Fall/Winter 2026-2027 collection unfolded as a four-part narrative rooted in Italian artistry and forward-thinking design.
The 107-piece collection, spanning ready-to-wear, footwear, handbags, and accessories introduced a renewed visual language rooted in Italian artistry and emotional storytelling.
Models pose during the Sergio Soldano Brand Revival Event and F/W 2026 Womenswear Collection Presentation at Printemps on February 11, 2026 in New York City. (Photo by Sean Zanni/Getty Images)
The Architecture of Black
The Revelation of the Anemone introduced sculptural silhouettes in leather and silk, defined by sharp tailoring and confident volumes. A handcrafted leather anemone flower emerged as the signature motif symbolizing rebirth, resilience, and quiet strength.
Genoa: A Return to Origins
Theme Two paid homage to Genoa, the birthplace of Maestro Sergio Soldano. Historic palazzi, grand architectural lines, and monumental urban perspectives were transformed into graphic silk prints and sculptural silhouettes. The result? A collection grounded in cultural memory yet executed with modern precision—an elegant dialogue between geography and garment.
Squares in the City: Urban Geometries
Urban life took center stage in Theme Three. Clean lines, structured tailoring, and functional volumes defined a wardrobe built for movement and versatility. Vibrant accents punctuated minimalist foundations, proving that geometry remains at the heart of the house DNA—now reimagined for a dynamic, contemporary woman navigating city life with confidence.
The Time of Sinopia: Rebirth
The final chapter, inspired by preparatory fresco sketches and the architectural rhythm of Via XX Settembre in Genoa, reflected on creative beginnings. Memory became print. Gesture became form. Vision became future. It was a poetic meditation on reinvention—an artistic metaphor for the house itself.
Founded in 1968, Sergio Soldano quickly became one of Italy’s most distinctive voices in fashion, celebrated for bold geometry, vivid color, and an extraordinary ability to flatter the female form. His designs captivated international icons including Elizabeth Taylor, Gina Lollobrigida, Monica Vitti, and Virna Lisi, among many others. His creations graced films, editorials, and red carpets, cementing his reputation as “the new man of fashion” and a defining force in mid-century modern style.
Today, under the leadership of Co-Creative Directors Giovanni Premoli and Dario Di Bella and backed by Desire Holding Group, the brand enters a new chapter defined by noble materials, impeccable construction, and a distinctly contemporary sensibility. The Sergio Soldano woman emerges elegant yet powerful rooted in heritage, yet unmistakably modern.
As the house expands its retail footprint and global partnerships, its growth feels intentional and artfully paced. If this New York debut is any indication, Sergio Soldano’s renaissance is not a fleeting comeback it’s a lasting evolution of Italian luxury for a new generation.
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